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Letter from Tibet
story and photos by William Jans
  I was truly fortunate to visit Mount Kailash in Western Tibet in 2001 while it was considered to be the "second most inaccessible place on the planet." The purpose of that trip was not to go UP a mountain, but around it. Mount Kailash is considered the holiest mountain in Asia and devoted pilgrims aspire for the opportunity to walk that holy route... just getting there can take from 5 to 12 days due to the bad roads.
  Completing a "Kora" or circumambulation of the holy mountain was made all the more spectacular by joining a local named "Tsegar."

Tsegar was not just a guide he was a devout pilgrim and this was his 36th Kora around this 52 kilometer high altitude route. He even completed a Prostration Kora (that is like crawling on your belly for 52 km). That endeavor took him three weeks.
 

Once back in Vancouver I mailed him a photo of his newborn, his family portrait and a nice note thanking him for the great experience.

That letter went out likely around mid 2001.

Amazingly on March 27, 2007 (6 years after the trip) I received this wonderful reply that just made my day. Tsegar included some photos (including a polaroid taken of him on the Kora route) and a wonderful brief note written in pencil in english.

I have translated what I could below. This is still one of my favorite pieces of mail.
 

(ORIGINAL)
Hall Jans. I am Tse Gar. Your pefar to Kalashe.

I am. We. Tin you to Cor.ra.

Your. See T me your photo.
.
I Am in 2005 10 P com se.

I am Los your address so I am Not seet yous. I am very sorree.

Today. I look ma p.k. in seet. Half your address. So I Am reet this. Four your.

New. I am in Dache. Kalashe is Very good. today. Is tibet new Yar In Kalashe so we seet the photo for your. Tashe dele.

In mo t kalashe. I am he fo Teh shoop. Name is Om Coffe Shop. I am har. Very good. Thak Your!

New in Kalashe. Hene telephone Mar. Telephone No P. is _______

Tse Gar. 2007, 1, 28.

  

(TRANSLATION)
Hello Jans. I am Tsegar. Your porter to Kailash


I am waiting for you do the Kora

You sent me your photo.

In 2005 October, the photo comes.

I lost your address so I did not send yours. I am very sorry.

Today I look at the package inside. Have your address so I am writing this for you.

Now I am in Dache, Kailash, is very good. Today is Tibet New Year, so we sent the photo for you. Tashi Delek.



I am at Kailash. I am working for Om Coffee Shop. I am here. Very good. Thank you.

New in Kailash, have telephone. My Telephone number is _______

Tse Gar. 2007, 1, 28.

I sent a reply on Feb 21, 2008. Typed in TIBETAN Language! I am thrilled to say that it translated into Tibetan by a truly amazing fellow. I would love to share with Tsegar is WHO helped me with this translation...

Firstly I have to explain something... I was lucky enough to be one of three official photographers for the visit of his holiness the 14th Dalai Lama to Canada in 2006. I was in pretty close proximity for three days and was able to meet many amazing people including the translator for his holiness who is based out of Montreal. I am so grateful he was kind enough to help me translate my note into Tibetan script. I would like nothing more than to share that fact with Tsegar, but I cannot risk writing that in a letter since it may get confiscated on its way into China. Can you imagine being able to share that "this letter was translated by none other than the translator (and friend) to your living god." Wow.

I hope to meet Tsegar in person again one day to tell him the whole story. I think he would be fascinated. For now I have to hope that he gets the letter.... and I might have to wait another few years for a reply.

Safe Travels,
William Jans

     
Vancouver-based photographer/ adventurer William Jans enjoys a cult following thanks to his multimedia travel shows about his absurd travels. If you might like to catch one his LIVE SHOWS in your city, register for updates on his website at www.wrjphoto.com